The Ulu Pandan Park Connector

Singapore styles itself as “The Garden City”. Among the island’s many features that make it deserving of this moniker, The Park Connector Network stands out to me. A network of well tended walkways lined with greenery that connect the many parks scattered across Singapore; the park connectors make me feel like Singapore is one big garden, and the park connectors are the walkways along which we may stroll to enjoy what the garden has to offer. I’ve explored the first two of the 7.1 km long trail many times in the last few years.

The walkway runs very nearly westward along a canal that emerges from a dark tunnel right under the Buona Vista MRT station. Stubborn plants sprout from cracks in the concrete walls that reinforce either side of the canal. The textured mossy walls are lined with the memories of the waters’ flow into the canal during the rain.

On normal days, the canal is a shallow, peaceful, relatively clear stream of water. Tropical thunderstorms bring violence. The water rises almost to the edge of the concrete walls and swift currents create swirling vortices. Draining water carries dust and dirt from the city into the canal, turning the stream reddish brown.

In my experience, the most beautiful time to visit the park connector is during the two hours on either side of the sunset on a clear, relatively cloudless day. At this time, even boring office buildings can look beautiful, bathed in golden sunlight.

The main entrance to the park connector appears as an abrupt break in the footpath on Commonwealth Avenue West. A second entrance to the park connector is hidden further inside the Ghim Moh estate. Thick, reddish stems of Crepe ginger plant stand out against the sea of dark, leafy green branches that crowd near the entrance. Crepe ginger flowers bloom abundantly here.

Green metal barricades are firmly bolted along the edges of the canal. Meticulously maintained, they make access to the canal next to impossible. Large signs warn against entering the canal in case there is a sudden surge of water when it rains.

This park connector is a favorite spot for those looking to get in some exercise at the end of their work day. Some stroll along at a leisurely pace. Most jog. The occasional dedicated runner sprints past, huffing and puffing, sometimes shirtless in an effort to cool their bodies against Singapore’s sultry evening air. Gentle peals of bicycle bells, the muted hum of electric scooters, and the metallic grinding of ball bearings from skateboards frequently punctuate the silence. Some prefer to signal their presence with the loud blare of music. Like coal powered locomotives of old, the music crescendoes and fades as they whizz past.

Like in the Rail Corridor, most of the trees planted along the park connector have been allowed to grow naturally with relatively infrequent prunings. They grow tall and wide, sometimes dwarfing nearby houses. Some of the trees on the park connector (like the trumpet tree) have flowers that bloom in the summer.

In my opinion, most beautiful stretch of the walkway occurs just after the first left turn. Houses with sloping, tiled roofs overlook the canal and the walkway appears to lead straight into the setting sun. During the sunset, you can enjoy the canal lit by beautiful golden hour lighting. The warm light casts deep shadows across the canal and glints off the metal barricades. Many people stop in their tracks at this time, and take a moment to appreciate the sight; a reminder that our sense of natural beauty is something shared across all of humanity.

Sunsets on the park connector can be intense but brief. The light can be almost blinding but fades fast and the street lamps blink on. At this time, you might be tempted to start the journey back home. But experience has taught me that sometimes, the most spectacular skies occur shortly after the sun has set.

As the last of the sunlight fades, the windows of the nearby apartment towers start to light up. I enjoy looking up at the apartment windows at this time because of the little bits of the occupant’s personality that shine through the windows. Many stick to clinical white fluorescent lighting. But I like looking for the warmer tones of yellow or orange. Some decorate their windows with fairy lights on special occasions. On this night I even noticed the magenta glow of grow lights lighting up one window.

As night falls, the crowds thin and more lights illuminate the darkness. Scents of delicious cooking start wafting into the park from nearby houses. This usually reminds me of dinner and I start the walk back home, thinking about what to eat.