Exploring Merlion Park

Merlion Park is probably the first image of Singapore that comes to your mind if you’re a tourist. For years, I’ve resisted visiting this park, dissuaded by its dense, anxiety inducing crowds and sparse shade. Owing to the park’s extreme popularity, I also felt that my photos might not have anything new to say about the place. Hundreds of thousands of photographers have probably visited the park and taken photos from every imaginable angle. However, my partner disputed this assessment. “A thousand photographers might have visited Merlion park, but none of them will see the park exactly the way you do, ” she said.

Spurred on by her encouragement, I set out early in the morning on Monday, May 2 intending to avoid both the crowds and the hot sun. I arrived at the Raffles Place MRT just as the Victoria Theater clock tower struck 7. Puddles of water squelched under my feet as I walked into Raffles Place Park. Droplets of water glittered on glass and steel; the aftermath of the thunderstorm that blew in overnight. Raffles Place Park sits right in the middle of Singapore’s Central Business District. So tall office buildings surrounded me.

To reach Merlion Park, I started my walk down Battery Road. The light from the rising sun - softened by a layer of translucent clouds that covered the sky - was starting to illuminate some of the buildings.

The majestic columnade of The Fullerton Hotel, which overlooks the Merlion park, was soon visible. With its Neoclassical architecture, the building really stands out, radiating a sense of beauty and glory in comparison to the relatively uninspiring modern buildings nearby. Fullerton Road - a massive six lane highway - separates the hotel from Merlion Park. Early in the morning on a public holiday, traffic on the road was light and the only human presence was the occasional jogger.

The statue of the Merlion - a mythical creature half lion, half fish - draws you in as you enter the park. The statue faces east, spewing stream of foamy water from its mouth. I couldn’t have asked for better lighting. Soft sunlight, filtered by the thin clouds, shone directly on the statue’s face.

As I reached the statue, I noticed that I was not the only one taking advantage of the morning light and the photogenic Marina Bay. The pier adjacent to the Merlion statue - usually occupied by throngs of tourists posing for photos with the Merlion - was instead packed with filming equipment. Even from a distance it was possible to make out the roles of those assembled at the pier. The camera operators sported headphones and other camera gear. A stern-faced woman walked briskly around the scene, hands akimbo directing the flow of actions and people on set. The actor stood alone at the edge of the pier, facing the cameras, unhindered by equipment.

Not far away, a small crowd was gathered around a couple sweating through layers of gaudy clothing as a photographer set up his tripod.

The statue of the Merlion stands on a pedestal decorated with dark blue square tiles, and surrounded by two narrow, stepped moats. The sun was angled just right to make the wet, stony surfaces of the pedestal glisten and sparkle. I liked the contrast between the calm, reflective surface of the pools and the more textured waters of the sea.

The souvenir shops, restaurants, and ferry ride counters are all closed this early in the morning. Their windows are shuttered and some were cordoned off. This gave the whole area a sense of loneliness and recent abandonment. Normally, the buzz of activity that surrounds busy places gives me energy. It’s the reason I like working in cafes. However, when I take photos, this preference seems to be inverted. I tend to avoid taking photos with people close to the camera. I enjoy creating photos that give off a sense of loneliness and abandonment.

To the west of the Merlion statue, a walkway stretched into the distance along the Marina Bay. Stainless steel guardrails and neatly arranged potted plants line the edge of the walkway near the water. Bright pink flowers bloomed on the potted plants, occasionally breaking the monotony of green. The flowers are probably seasonal, as they were not blooming as abundantly as I remembered from my last visit.

Across the bay, other iconic Singaporean buildings were silhouetted against the bright morning sky. The spidery metallic structures holding up the Helix bridge were faintly visible on the horizon. I also noticed a plume of white smoke rising from a building in the distance.

It was around half past seven when I started walking down this stretch of the park. Sweaty joggers were starting to fill up the area and the invigorating aroma of coffee was emanating from a Starbucks nearby. Several people were camped out there, already typing away at their laptops, coffee at their side. Most of the other restaurants there were closed.

As the Victoria Theater clock struck 8, the Merlion park was starting to get crowded. Families and large groups strolled by, enjoying the freedom to gather after the recent relaxation of COVID-19 restrictions. The sun was climbing higher, making my ears feel uncomfortably hot. I headed back to Raffles Place MRT. I was hungry after the long morning walk. Silky sweet egg tarts and hot coffee awaited me back in Ghim Moh Market.